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From stephen.delf–(at)–elcom.gen.nz Wed Feb 21 18:17:35 CST 1996
Article: 10177 of alt.guitar.amps
Path: geraldo.cc.utexas.edu!cs.utexas.edu!swrinde!newsfeed.internetmci.com!in1.uu.net!brighton.openmarket.com!decwrl!waikato!comp.vuw.ac.nz!welcom!stephen.delft
From: stephen.delf–(at)–elcom.gen.nz (Stephen Delft)
Newsgroups: alt.guitar.amps
Subject: Re: Hand Wire vs. PC Boar
Date: Sat, 17 Feb 1996 11:32:00 GMT
Message-ID: <960219040938431--(at)--elcom.gen.nz>
Organization: WELCOM BBS
Distribution: world
References: <4fdbkt$ra--(at)--ver.mhv.net> <4f64ep$mp--(at)--anyon.sr.hp. Lines: 50

(part of reply from Dr Distortion)
DD> A PCB-based amp that also uses rugged connectors and full-sized
chassis-mounted pots would probably be pretty reliable.

Certainly….Marshall used to make one – I haven’t seen much in print
about this version, but I used to work on them when I lived in London –
Mostly replacing worn-out input jacks and pots. They used regular
hard-wired pots and jacks, mounted on the chassis, and all the
connection wires from the PCB were anchored by each re-passing through a
second (larger) hole, next to the soldered connection. I believe they
lster shifted to a less expensive construction.

If anyone is interested, this method of stress-relief of flexible wires
soldered to a PCB costs nothing more than a bit more board space and a
second row of holes just large enough to clear the wire’s insulation.
On the evidence I have seen, it survived much vibration in use and
transport, and I never had any problems from the PCB’s or the leadout
wires. I certainly could *not* say the same about modern
ribbon-wiring, or about board-mounted pots and jacks – which seem to be
the most common causes of amp failure.

And perhaps I could add another one …board-mounted main fuses at
the rear of the chassis!
I have had problems with the PCB-mounted rear fuseholders on “reissue”
Fender ’93 Supers and Concerts. The fuse holder is held only by thin
solder tags at the rear and middle, and a small plastic stud at the
“outer” end of the barrel. If the plastic stud cracks, the next thing to
go is the mid-barrel solder tag, resulting in an intermittent or
completely dead amp.

If you relieve the front edge of the fuseholder PCB between the
mounting screw-posts (Dremel motor and coarse grinding point);
and file the chassis hole slightly larger and upwards (towards the open
face of the chassis), making the usual double-flatted-circle shape;
….it is just possible to install a regular 1 1/4 inch chassis-mounting
fuseholder and hard-wire it to the PCB. (Littelfuse recent safety-type,
w/small bayonet cap)

BTW….does anyone have a schematic for Fender 160PS tube PA amp

I am also looking for cheap, blown, old Fender Bassman, Acro, or
similar PP O/P transformers, around 20-50 watt, which still have their
original winding construction undisturbed. I am particularly interested
to see examples of early paper-interleaved transformers, and also the
Triad? early Bassman transformer referred to in Kendrick’s book as
having a more complex interleaving of windings than later models.

Regards to all,
Stephen.
stephen.delf–(at)–elcom.gen.nz

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