Fender Bias Pot Failures
From mgarvi–(at)–anix.com Wed Mar 20 12:16:57 CST 1996
Article: 7662 of rec.audio.tubes
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From: mgarvi–(at)–anix.com (Mark Garvin)
Newsgroups: rec.audio.tubes
Subject: Re: Cherry red hot tube…
Date: 19 Mar 1996 19:34:08 -0500
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>mgarvi–(at)–anix.com (Mark Garvin) wrote:
>>Good answers from Larry. Just thought I’d mention that I usually
>>patch a relatively high resistor (usually around 100k or so) from
>>the NEGATIVE end of the bias pot to the center tap. If the pot
>>fails, the resistor will pull the grid down to a safe level rather
>>than letting it float.
Jack Price
Uh-oh…I’m repeating myself…[Uh-oh...I'm repeating myself...]
>advice. Cheap insurance for your output tubes. What I have seen several
Yes, limited mojo in those solid wires, I think. Best stay with
That’s the failure that I’ve seen most often.
Mark Garvin
From cign–(at)–elios.phy.OhioU.Edu Wed Mar 20 20:33:51 CST 1996
In article <4injq0$ld--(at)--anix2.panix.com>,
The heat is a problem, especially for carbon comp resistors. But my
— Dave Cigna
>I’ve seen you post this suggestion more then once. This is really good
>times now from just 1 year of a home repair/restoration business, is that
>the bias wire from the bias board to the bias pot, specially if it’s solid
>wire, will break off right at the pot…instant glow.
stranded. Another questionable design practice in Fender amps is
putting the 1.5k grid-stopper right on the tube socket. They get
heated, stressed by wiggling tubes, flamed by burning screen resistors,
etc. and they crack. Not always visible and frequently intermittent.
Article: 7684 of rec.audio.tubes
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From: cign–(at)–elios.phy.OhioU.Edu (Dave Cigna)
Subject: Re: Cherry red hot tube…
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Mark Garvin
> [snip]
>stranded. Another questionable design practice in Fender amps is
>putting the 1.5k grid-stopper right on the tube socket. They get
>heated, stressed by wiggling tubes, flamed by burning screen resistors,
>etc. and they crack. Not always visible and frequently intermittent.
understanding is that the grid stoppers need to be as close to the grid
pin on the tube as possible — something about being at the current
anti-node of the oscillations.